Takstang, The Tiger’s Nest

by sjsonnenbergmd

Taktsang is said to be the holiest site in Bhutan. It’s where Guru Rinpoche, also known as Padmasambhava, materialized some 1,300 years ago on the back of a flying tigress. “In order for Guru Rinpoche to tame the local deity Sengye Samdrub who resided at Paro Taktshang, the Guru transformed into a very wrathful form with a deep brown complexion and short curly hair. He flew directly to the cliffside cave astride a tigress with his right leg bent and left leg extended, ready to subdue Sengye Samdrub. After subjugating the local deity and converting him to serve Buddhism, the Guru took over Taktsang as his residence and meditated there. Ever since this time, the specific form of the Guru has been known as Guru Dorje Droloe and the location as the now famous Tiger’s nest.

“Guru Padmasambhava, the ‘Lotus-Born Teacher’ is considered a Buddha in his own right.” He is credited with introducing Vajrayana Buddism to Bhutan. “Bhutanese people believe that as a result of Guru Rinpoche’s activities, there is not one place within the country – not even the size of a horse hoof – that he has not blessed and thus transformed into a sacred space conducive to enlightened activity.” ‘Invoking happiness’ Khenpo Phuntshok Tashi

The hike to the Tiger’s Nest starts at an altitude of about 8,530 feet and concludes at 10,232 feet. We were accompanied by our friends and informal guides, Pabi and Kinley.
Horses are an option, though they must turn around halfway up the trail for safety. We were happy we didn’t choose to ride. The trails were very slippery and at one point a horse lost it’s footing and I was forced to fall out of the way. Fortunately, the horses use the outside of the trail.
Here we are at the halfway point. Taktsang is the tiny white dot in the upper right corner.
The most iconic site in all of Bhutan and a must see for any visitor, Taktsang was nearly destroyed by fire in 1998 and rebuilt in 2005. Originally built in the 1600’s, it boggles the mind to imagine the engineering and logistics involved in doing so.
Pabi, at the age of ten, climbed to Taktsang as a class outing, starting the long walk from school at four in the morning. At the time, the trails were rudimentary and railings non-existent. Ten years old!
You cross a bridge at the base of the falls before the final climb. The figures at the base provide perspective.
We visited several temples within the complex. In the first was a larger than life sculpture of the wrathful manifestation of Padmasambhava atop his Tibetan consort in the form of a tiger. In the second, monks were holding a chanting service. After prostrations to Sakyamuni Buddha and Padmasambhava, we received a blessing, saffron laced water poured into our hands, to drink a bit and apply the remainder to our head. In the final temple, a monk sat guarding the sealed entrance to the cave where Padmasambhava had meditated, the entrance opened only once per year on a very holy day. Again we were blessed with the saffron water. Finally, we were able to peek into the Tiger’s Nest, a long narrow cave where Padmasambhava’s consort, in the form of a tiger, originally rested.
Pabi is a mother of three and full time oncology nurse, married to a designer and construction supervisor for luxury hotel resorts in Bhutan. Kinley has applied for a cooperative program between Canada and the Bhutan to obtain a Master’s in Nursing with a specialty in palliative care. Both were born in the little village of Gelephu. Pabi walked two miles to and from school and was one of ten children. Kinley, perhaps ten years younger, took the bus and was one of only two. Times have changed so rapidly here.
Pabi and Kinley are just so kind, generous and welcoming. We’re very lucky to have them as friends.
They mean business here.
Farewell to Taktsang

The climb to Taktsang took us three hours, the descent two. We drove the winding road with Pabi and Kinley from Paro back to Thimphu, where we picked up two of her children and went out to Cloud 9 for pizza and ice cream. It was a wonderful way to cap off a magical day.

1 Comment

  1. Beautiful. Great to see that you too are doing so well.
    Could you send me a link to the picture of the demon on the back of a tiger.
    I would like to find a copy of that to frame.

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