National Memorial Chorten

Visually the most conspicuous religious site in the thrombe of Thimphu and only 200 meters or so from the hospital, the chorten is a site we often take for granted as we casually pass by en route to downtown. The experience can, however, be a moving one, notably on special occasions.

Though frequent, the occasion and timing of rituals appears haphazard to the uninitiated. Fortunately, we have stumbled upon a few.

Built in 1974 to honor the late 3rd king and restored in 2008, the chorten was designed in the Tibetan style. Unlike other chortens, it contains no sacred remains, the portrait of the 3rd king the only relic. Visitors may enter through one doorway into the first floor chamber. It is not a temple and there is no elaborate altar, not even an image of Buddha. Instead, you circumambulate an enclosure with approximately three dozen larger than life statues of the wrathful manifestations of Buddhas, Bodhisattva, and Devas, nearly all in the Yab-yum position of sexual intercourse, the male representing wisdom and compassion, the female, insight. To be honest, it’s a bit frightening.

Tongue-in-cheek, Margaret refers to the chorten grounds as the adult day care program for Thimphu. Here are some of the regulars having lunch and dishing the dirt next to the prayer wheels. It’s their job to pray for the country and all sentient beings, but they have a great time socializing as well.

Two new friends after their first taste of maple sugar candy. Wherever you go in Bhutan, food is an important medium of social exchange. The gifts can be modest but it’s literally the thought that counts, earning the giver merit as well as a smile.

Once done with prostrations, it’s time to circumambulate the chorten, always clockwise with the chorten to your right. Early in our stay here, a young girl approached me with “Uncle, you need to go the other way.” Prayers are chanted, each counted on the 108 bead mala carried by every pilgrim.

Victory banners hung (upper left) and offerings in place for the ritual blessings of those artisans that operate the 83 craft stalls at the southern end of Norzin Lam, the main street downtown. The rituals were a full week in preparation, many of the vendors closing their stalls for the week and sacrificing a week’s sales in order to receive a lama’s blessing for the remainder of a profitable year.

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The Lord Buddha’s Descending Day. Like so many of our experiences in Bhutan, it’s hard not to become fully immersed and even overwhelmed.