Bumthang

by sjsonnenbergmd
Jambay Lhakhang is said to be one of the 108 temples in the Himalayas built by the Tibetan King Songtsen Goenpo in 659 AD on a single day to pin down an ogress to earth forever. A supine demoness was causing obstruction to the spread of Buddhism, and the temples were constructed on her body parts that spread across Tibet, Bhutan and the borderlands. The temple at Jambay Lhakhang pinned down her left knee. The best known of the 108 temples are Kichu in Paro, Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang and Jokhang in Lhasa, Tibet. Other lesser known temples in Bhutan have been destroyed. Text from DrukAsia, stock photo from Bhutancom.com

We were fortunate enough to arrive at the start of the annual Dorling Drupchen, “in a service to the teachings of Shakyamuni Buddha in general and for the well-being, peace, happiness and prosperity of His Majesty the King, Royal Family, officials and the people of Bhutan in particular.” We were even more fortunate that the rituals were being performed outside the temple, in a tent where we were permitted to take photos.

Ritual drums Choe-Nga
After the ceremony, we received holy water and blessings from the very cheerful and welcoming chief abbot.

The temple of Jambay Lhakhang was later visited by Guru Rinpoche and later restored by Sendhu Raja after Guru restored his life force. Jambay Lhakhang has been repaired and rebuilt several times over time. During the 8th century, Sendhu Raja who was the king of Bumthang fell ill, and he invited Guru Rinpoche who brought Buddhism to Bhutan to cure him. Guru Rinpoche found out that the King’s illness was caused by the local deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo.

Finding the cause of the illness, Guru chased the deities into a cave, and Guru meditated inside the cave for three months. Guru then subdued the deities including the powerful Shelging Karpo and left his body imprint inside the cave, thus giving the name Kurjey (Body Imprint). Beside the Monastery is a tall cypress tree that is believed to have sprouted from the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche.

Temple dog and ravens at entrance to temple where we were shown the body imprint of Guru Rinpoche
Tamshing Lhakhang. Built in 1501, this monastery is pending on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Currently presided over by the 11th incarnation of Pema Lingpa (of burning lake), Tamshing houses approximately 100 monks, but it has no government support and no endowment. The monastery buildings are deteriorating but the wall paintings are among the oldest originals in Bhutan and UNESCO status would preclude renovation. Although dark inside, with low ceilings and uneven floors, it was one of the two holy places in Bhutan where I would most want to spend my days meditating.
The Burning Lake (Mebar Tsho)

It is believed that in 1495 a Buddhist Saint named Terlon Pema Lingpa jumped into this lake with a burning butter lamp. However, before he jumped he declared to the crowd “If I am a demon I shall die and if I am a true emanation of Guru Padmasambhava, let me come out with the treasures and the lamp still burning.” Accordingly, after a few minutes he came out of the lake holding a statue, a script and ritual skull, with the butter lamp still burning. Thereafter, this lake was known as Mebar Tsho. Text from interpretive sign at site.

Smoke offering at the Burning Lake

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